Baja California Sur (Dec.18.06 – Jan.2.07)

Posted by on Jan 19 2007 | 03 Mexico 06/07, English

Mountain passes and beaches

Already one month has passed since our last update! By now we are well into the mexican mainland, taking a break in Mexico´s second largest city Guadalajara.

But back to Guerrero Negro on Baja California Sur: Leaving the town, we were riding almost the whole day straight into a south eastward direction. the first curve was some 5km before the town we stayed that night. The landscape was a bit boring with little view into a flat country of brushes and some cacti, but closer to the ground were millions of pink, yellow and orange wild flowers blooming.

IMG_0060_1.jpg   0061

A long gradual climb brought us well past San Ignacio. It was the third day after we had left Guerrero Negro and we would arrive in Santa Rosalia today after a relatively easy ride, we thought. But after about 10km I had a flat that needed to be fixed at the side of the highway in a steep curve. We passed dark lava flows and vulcanos framing our view of soft hills covered with cacti, blooming brushes and wild flowers in purple and blue colours. The highway kept winding its way up and up and a strong side wind didn´t help us move very fast either.

Finally we seemed to be at the top and whizzed down a very steep and windy pass only to start climbing gradually again on its foot. Again we had reached some highest point and could finally see the Sea of Cortez in the distance. Again the highway brought us to its lowest point with only a few very steep curves and again we had to climb another hill, steep but luckily shorter and whizzed down for the last time towards the sea. Our shadows were long already and we were tired. Entering Santa Rosalia we passed through the remenants of what was once a french mining town, cartboard houses on the hillside and garbage lying arround everywhere.

On this side of the Baja it seemed to be a little warmer although still not what we had expected from people´s accounts of hot beach weather. Neverthless we decided to take a rest on one of the many beautiful beaches of Bahia Conception.

IMG_0075.jpg  IMG_0077.jpg
It was one of the really windy days and we were looking for some wind shade. And there they were, small palm leaf palapas on a dream beach! One seemed to be waiting for us and we put our tent up inside.

Soon there was no empty palapa left on the beach and we had a Canadian couple as neighbours which invited us into their Rv to get out of the wind. On the other side was a playmate for Chan from California (USA) with her mother and oncle. One whole day we rested and played at the beach. The wind was taking a break as well and let us enjoy beautiful warm sunny day.

IMG_0084.jpg  IMG_0088.jpg  IMG_0103.jpg

From the Canadian couple we could borrow kayaks to explore the bay and from the Californian´s we got bread and water. In the evening another family with a bunch of kids arrived in a van. They lit a fire and soon all the kids played arround it eating snacks. Fascinated by our journey all of our neighbours helped filling our panniers before we left the next day. So Chan got organic apple sauce and juice, we got dried fruit, tortillas and mandarins. In the morning they cooked coffee for us and hot chocolate for Chan and Kayla the californian girl gave Chan some of her toys. The wind had again picked up quite a bit and was blowing from the right direction for us. We were riding over 90km that day, into Loreto, where we stayed for Christmas. Of course the bike store was closed so duct tape hade to immitate rim tape to prevent more flats in my back wheel. I´ve had so many flats over the past few weeks and all on the inside of the tube. They couldn´t have been caused by thorns or glass splinters. Finally we figured it out: When my wheel had been replaced in Monterrey (USA), the mechanics put the old worn out rim tape back in, which was now not staying in place anymore, wrinkling up and cutting into the tube.

From Loreto we could see into the Sierra de la Giganta, a beautiful mountain range with steep needle like peaks one chain behind the other disapearing into mist. Early in the morning we started the climb of which american “locals” had warned us about. There were only a few switch backs and soon the Sea of Cortez was out of sight. The next 10km flew by and already we were imaginig ourselves in the next bigger town, when the road lead us uphill again close to a 2-3m rock wall which reflected the heat of the sun upon us. Chan had a hard time falling asleep, his cheeks were bright read and his body wet from sweating. There was no shade to take a break, but I needed to recover for a few minutes in the shade of the trailer while Chan was drying up playing in the sun and Flo was fueling up on avocado cheese tortillas holding our bikes. Finally a long gentle downhill ride awaited us against a strong dry and hot head wind. We stopped for the night at the first village only about 10km before Ciudad Insurgentes and put our tent up behind an abarrote tienda and an abandoned Pemex gas station. Just before we wanted to crawl into the tent we had a drunk visitior who was talking nonsense and was really hard to get rid of. Early next morning he was back calling us, but we pretended to be sleeping and later didn´t see him again.

And back again at the Sea of Cortez

1 comment for now

One Response to “Baja California Sur (Dec.18.06 – Jan.2.07)”

  1. Merle and Linda

    Rebekka and Florian,

    We’re glad that things are going well and you are so far down the continent. Congrats. We’ve been following your progress, but haven’t commented much, and I assume that is true for many readers. Will greatly enjoy the photos when you can get them up. Please keep posting and stay safe. All fine here in San Diego.

    Our best to Chan.

    07 Feb 2007 at 5:55 pm

Comments RSS

Leave a Reply

Bad Behavior has blocked 10 access attempts in the last 7 days.